My 21-Day Road Trip Through Ireland: The Only Blog About Ireland You Really Need to Know.
Some trips you forget as soon as you get home.
Other trips will continue to linger in your mind for years to come.
For me, Ireland is that kind of trip.
Not because it has the highest mountains. Not because its cities are the largest. And not even because the natural scenery is spectacular everywhere. What makes Ireland special is something much harder to put into words: the pace. The tranquility. The light. And above all, the way the landscape invites you to pause for a moment.
On my first trip, I thought I wanted to see as much as possible. Cover as many kilometers as possible, check off as many highlights as possible. But as the days went by, I discovered that Ireland isn’t about speed at all. It’s about paying attention.
That’s exactly why I decided to put together an itinerary that not only lets you see the island, but also truly experience it. An itinerary that alternates between well-known highlights and hidden gems, quiet coastal roads, small villages, and places where you sometimes feel like you’re all alone.
This 21-day road trip has now become the foundation for my photography, my free Ireland e-book, the BAKKM Ireland Photography Atlas – Founder’s Edition, and the photography tours I organize. But above all, it’s the route I would drive again myself tomorrow.
Make it stand out
Why choose a 21-day tour?
Many visitors try to explore Ireland in a week. Of course, that’s possible, but to be honest, you’re not doing the country justice that way.
You drive from one hotspot to the next, get out to take a photo, grab a quick cup of coffee somewhere, and head off again. You’ve seen a lot, but experienced very little.
In three weeks, something completely different will emerge.
You’ll have time to spend a morning walking through Glendalough in the fog. You can wait for the sun to set at the Cliffs of Moher. You’ll discover a deserted beach that no travel guide mentions, and you’ll spontaneously stop at a small café where the owner will tell you which coastal road you absolutely mustn’t miss.
It's precisely those unexpected moments that make Ireland unforgettable.
The Route
My route begins and ends in Dublin.
From there, you can make a complete loop around the island without having to drive back and forth unnecessarily.
Dublin
Dublin is the perfect introduction to Ireland. Of course, Trinity College, Temple Bar, and Guinness are popular, but be sure to look up as well. The doors, the bridges, the street musicians, and the narrow alleys tell just as many stories as the famous sights.
Wicklow Mountains
After Dublin, the landscape changes almost immediately.
It’s no coincidence that Wicklow is called the Garden of Ireland. Here you’ll find valleys, mountains, lakes, and ancient monastery ruins. Glendalough is without a doubt one of my favorite places in all of Ireland.
Go early.
Not to avoid the crowds, but to experience the silence.
Kilkenny
Kilkenny almost feels like an open-air museum.
Medieval streets, cozy pubs, and an impressive castle combine to make this one of Ireland's most beautiful historic cities.
Be sure to take the time to go for a walk outside the city center.
Kinsale
Kinsale is colorful, lively, and perhaps the most charming port town in Ireland.
The combination of excellent restaurants, historic buildings, and the rugged coastline makes this a place where you'll easily want to stay longer.
Don't forget Charles Fort.
Killarney National Park
This is where one of the most beautiful regions in the country begins.
Ross Castle.
Torc Waterfall.
Muckross House.
Ladies View.
Every location really deserves its own day.
Dingle Peninsula
Many travelers choose the Ring of Kerry.
Personally, I prefer the Dingle Peninsula.
Calmer.
More authentic.
And perhaps even more impressive from a photographic standpoint.
The Slea Head Drive is without a doubt one of the most beautiful driving routes I've ever taken.
Doolin and the Cliffs of Moher
Of course you'll visit the Cliffs of Moher.
But don't dwell on it.
In fact, it’s the smaller coastal roads around Doolin and the Burren that often offer much more impressive views without the huge crowds.
Donegal
Donegal feels like you're entering a different Ireland.
Rougher.
Wilder.
Less touristy.
Here you'll find what may well be the most spectacular coastal landscapes on the entire island.
For photographers, this is a paradise.
Mullingar
Before heading back to Dublin, Mullingar is a wonderful place to relax for a while.
From here, you can visit beautiful lakes, go for a walk, or simply enjoy the Irish countryside.
My Five Favorite Places
After several trips, I'm often asked the same question:
"What's your absolute favorite place?"
That's still a challenge.
Still, there are five places I return to on every trip.
1. Glendalough – for its tranquility, the morning light, and its history.
2. Slea Head Drive – perhaps the most beautiful coastal route in Europe.
3. Gougane Barra – a place where nature and tranquility come together.
4. Downpatrick Head – rugged, powerful, and impressive.
5. Kinsale – because Ireland can also be cozy, colorful, and a culinary delight.
Ireland Through the Eyes of a Photographer
Photography has taught me to see things differently.
While many people find a rain shower annoying, I see softer light.
While others drive right past, I wait another ten minutes.
That's often when something special happens.
A ray of sunlight breaking through the clouds.
Fog slowly rising from a valley.
A sheep that stands in exactly the right spot.
Ireland rewards patience.
That might just be the most important photography tip I can give.
If you'd like to learn how to observe or take photos better yourself, join me on my photo experience.
Practical Tips for Your Road Trip
It is best to travel between May and September.
Book your accommodations well in advance if you're traveling in the summer.
Always bring rain gear / but always pack layers of clothing
Drive at a leisurely pace; you'll often find the most beautiful spots off the beaten path.
Get up before sunrise at least one morning.
Don't forget to put the camera away every now and then and just enjoy yourself.
Would you like to drive this route yourself?
Since I received so many questions during my travels about itineraries, photo spots, and practical tips, I've compiled everything into a few free resources.
You can download my comprehensive BAKKM Ireland e-book for free, featuring itineraries, travel tips, and inspiration.
In addition, I have the BAKKM Ireland Photography Atlas – Founder’s Edition : an interactive map featuring more than fifty carefully selected photo locations, complete with photography tips, practical information, and personal recommendations.
Looking for even more inspiration? On my Pinterest profile, you'll find hundreds of photos, itineraries, and ideas to help you plan your own trip.
Ireland Changes the Way You See Things
"I'll go back there next time."
Precisely because I know there's still so much to discover.
Ireland isn't a destination you visit just once.
It's a country you get to know little by little.
A country that invites you to slow down.
To see better.
And maybe—just maybe—you’ll start to see yourself a little differently, too.
If you’re planning a trip to Ireland soon, I hope this route inspires you. And who knows—maybe we’ll run into each other someday, somewhere on a deserted coastal road, with a camera in hand and a landscape that demands our full attention. ∎
